04 Nov One Day in Abruzzo

Before my parents came to visit us in Abruzzo, I spent hours trying to research what we should do. I’d found lists of the best things to see, but got overwhelmed when looking at the map. There was just so much —and no suggested itineraries. 

Abruzzo has been largely overlooked by tourists and even left out of Italian guidebooks. And as a result, the green, mountainous region full of national parks, medieval towns and beaches remains authentic and surprising. 

My favorite day in Abruzzo (besides the Open Harvest) was spent exploring the area around Gran Sasso National Park, including Campo Imperatore, Rocca Calascio, and the town of Santo Stefano. Here’s what it looked like:

A Long, Beautiful Drive though Abruzzo’s Mountains

It took about 1.5 hours to get from Elice (a small village in the Pescara province) to the Castle of Rocca Calascio. The two-lane road winded through steep hills, under canopies of trees, and to the tops of lookout points—offering views of the valleys and towns below. Then, after about an hour of switchbacks through the forest, we came out to a clearing: flat plains stretching for miles, ending at the stony mountains looming large.

From there, we drove through Gran Sasso National Park until we got as close as we could to the castle (it dead-ends at a small village) and parked on the street. I wasn’t sure where we’d be able to find parking, but since it was October, hardly anyone was around and we were able to get within a 20-minute walk to the fortress. I did hear that if you’re visiting Rocca Calascio during late spring or summer, you’ll either have to park 3km away and walk (about 45 minutes), or park in the town of Calascio and take the shuttle, which supposedly runs every 10 minutes.

Exploring the Castle of Rocca Calascio

This mountain-top fortress and its surroundings is absolutely stunning. Standing at 1,460 meters high, it’s easy to imagine it as a military outpost during medieval times, with its lookout points offering sweeping views over the valley,

While it’s not exactly clear when it was built (various sources state different years, but the official website claims the foundation could date back to year 1000, with historical documents mentioning the castle in 1380), it was partially restored in the 1980s from the earthquake of 1703. Similarly, the fortified village below was reinhabited around the same time—now a quaint, charming little place with several cafes and inns.

On the walk from the town to the castle, you pass an impressive church called Santa Maria della Pietà, built between the 16th and 17th centuries. It was closed when we were there, but the exterior is beautiful, and it serves as a great focal point for pictures.

Lunch in Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Just 15 minutes away by car is an ancient village made of stone that truly feels as if it’s frozen in time. It was apparently long abandoned after the unification of Italy, and was even advertised as one of the Italian towns paying people to move there and start businesses.

A huge part of the town’s revival is thanks to an “albergo diffuso,” or “diffused hotel” called Sextantio, which purchased several abandoned houses, restored them, and now rents them to tourists. The rooms look amazing and very traditional, and I plan to stay there next time I’m in Abruzzo.

These efforts have not only brought in tourists, but also shops and restaurants selling traditional products. We opted for a place called La Bettola di Geppetto for lentil soup, pastas made with local saffron, and one of the best dishes I’ve ever had: the amatriciana bianca with guanciale and truffle. My family and I actually ordered another plate of that pasta after we were finished because we all needed another couple bites.

Admiring Campo Imperatore

After lunch, we hopped back in the car and headed to Campo Imperatore within Gran Sasso National Park: an alpine meadow often referred to as “Little Tibet.”

It was only 30 minutes away, but we must have stopped three-four times on the way to get out and take in the majestic landscape. Wind whipping through the valleys, its cool sting was invigorating, and the four of us spread out in different directions, frolicking in the fields and staring off into the vastness. What a gift to go somewhere so big—to feel so small.

This was my favorite place in Abruzzo, and one Luke and I plan to return to with camping equipment.

Making our way back to Elice

We made our way through the park and back to the forest, to the narrow switchback roads. We were mostly quiet, taking in the day—save for the occasional “Wow, look at that!” and intermittent sheep sightings.

I wouldn’t have changed a thing, but I do want to go back and stay in Santo Stefano di Sessanio. I heard that you can hike to and from the castle from there, and I like the idea of working up a true hunger so I can over-order more pasta from La Bettola di Geppetto. I’d also like to camp during the warmer months, and to try grilling my own arrosticini at Ristoro Mucciante, located in the plain of Campo Imperatore.

Thankfully Luke and I bought an apartment nearby, so stay tuned. (Yes, we bought a home in Italy! I still can’t believe it. Details to come.)