25 Oct Experiencing the Wine Harvest in Abruzzo

Ever since I was a kid and saw the “I Love Lucy” episode where she stomps grapes, I’ve dreamt about climbing into a wooden wine barrel and doing the same—dancing and stomping with the Italian countryside as my background. 

And a few weeks ago, my dream came true, as I had the opportunity to participate in “Cantine Aperte in Vendemmia,” or “Open Cellars in Harvest.” 

As part of Movimento Turismo del Vino, wineries across Italy host a day of celebration for the season’s harvest—inviting local families and tourists to pick grapes, learn about the winemaking process, eat, drink, and of course, stomp. The first day of harvest happens sometime in September or October, depending on the region and the weather conditions of that year. This year, at least in Abruzzo, it ranged from September 25th to October 8th. 

My family and I chose to attend Contesa winery’s celebration on October 2nd and we had the most amazing time. Here’s our experience in pictures:

When we arrived to Contesa winery, we were given espresso, a pair of clippers, and a box. (I love how even at a wine event, espresso was prioritized!) We spent a bit of time meandering around the property and soaking in the views, then joined the others in the fields to pick grapes.

The vines were heavy with deep purple clusters. Snipping the tops of the bunches was satisfying, but the sweet juice from the grapes was even more so.

Once our box was overflowing with fruit, we headed back to the cellar.

Already, it was a celebration. The accordion player was singing and dancing along the paths, and visitors were joining in. Kids were running up and down the hills, playing hide-and-go-seek in the vineyards. Then we heard the first pop of the sparkling wine bottles and the resulting cheers from thirsty patrons. It was officially a party.

Our grapes were all dumped into these wooden boxes and all the children took turns jumping up and down. Many had worn their rubber boots for the occasion, and giggled as their parents hoisted them up and onto the wet, squishy fruit.

Once all the kids had had their fun, my mom and I jumped in. Holding onto one another for balance, we danced around in circles, laughing at full volume. Contesa staff members seemed amused at our revelry and took videos. When we got out, we were gifted a wine bottle in appreciation for just how much we embraced the tradition.

The rest of the afternoon was spent eating lunch and tasting the varieties of wine, starting with a sparkling rosé and a fresh white wine called Pecorino (like the cheese). Then we moved on to the most well-known grape variety from the region: Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (not to be confused with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Tuscany). During my two months in Abruzzo, I really fell in love with this red wine for its fruitiness and low acidity. It’s easy to drink and very affordable.

My family and I felt so lucky to be able to experience this festival, and couldn’t believe we were the only foreigners in attendance. When I asked the Contesa staff why they chose to open their doors for their first day of harvest, Pierpaolo Pasetti explained to me that it’s not just an excuse for a party (although it was one heck of a party); it’s a way to pass on important traditions.

“It is crucial for our family that future generations discover the world of agriculture, where vegetables come from and how to respect and preserve the environment,” he said. “The farmer can no longer just cultivate the land but must be its guardian and protector, and must teach this to others, so events like open cellar also serve to educate people.”

Information on the Open Harvest in Abruzzo:

What: It’s called “Cantine Aperte in Vendemmia”

When: End of September-Beginning of October (varies each year)

Where: Wineries all over Italy participate, and you can find a full listing on Movimento Turismo del Vino’s website.

How: Find the winery you want to visit, then email them directly to reserve your spot. Most wineries in Abruzzo charge 30 euros per adult and 20 per child.