It’s 8am in Atri, and Luke and I are sitting outside a cafe enjoying capuccini and a bomba: Abruzzo’s answer to the custard-filled donut. It’s market day, and it seems the entire patio of patrons is there to people-watch. 

All around us, tables are being unfolded, umbrellas are opened and secured. A man stacks boxes of children’s shoes, arranging them by color. A woman places a vintage coat on a mannequin, dusting its shoulders and adding a broach to the lapel. A couple paces the length of their food truck, taking turns checking on the porchetta rotating in the oven. 

It seems the whole town has come out to shop—or at least, to socialize. Everywhere you turn someone is yelling “Buongiorno!” and kissing, hugging, or shaking hands. Groups of old men huddle outside storefronts, holding small espresso cups with one hand and gesticulating with the other. You can’t help but think they’ve been friends since childhood. 

Every time I spend a morning at one of Italy’s outdoor markets, I fall more deeply in love with the country and its people. I love watching the villages wake up and come to life; the streets swelling with people. I even love feeling the energy build and hearing the volume rise as customers haggle for deals.

These markets typically take place once a week in the larger towns all across Italy, and each one is different. We’ve been to some that were only fruit and vegetable vendors, and others where clothing and pottery took center stage. There are also specialty markets where you can find antique furniture and costume jewelry. 

Some advice if you’re heading to a market in Italy:

• Most markets officially open at 8am, but this seems to be when most of the vendors arrive to set up. I’d suggest getting to the town at 8 and having a coffee while you scope out the scene. 
• The markets typically close around 1pm; but this could be earlier or later depending on when the vendors want to leave for lunch. Be flexible.
• Make sure to bring cash (ideally, a variety of small notes).
• You can try to bargain, but not for food items.
• Bring your own shopping bags.
• Don’t touch the produce with your bare hands! Even in the grocery stores, I’ve noticed that every Italian puts on plastic gloves before handling fruits and vegetables. So before inspecting items, make sure to find the box or pile of clean gloves. 
• Always choose the vendors with the biggest crowds!

Some information on where we’re staying now:

While I plan to go back and write a post or two about some of the stunning hilltop towns we visited in Umbria, Luke and I are now staying at a friend’s country house in Abruzzo, where we’ll be for the next six weeks. 

The region of Abruzzo is largely undiscovered by tourists, and the landscape is unlike anything we’ve seen in the rest of Italy. Outside our living room window, layers of rolling hills are dotted with olive trees. A craggy mountain looms large in the background and valleys snake down below. Thirty minutes away are sandy Adriatic beaches lined with pine trees. 

Our closest restaurant looks like a cafeteria and serves up large plates of thick, rustic pasta coated in “nonna’s” homemade tomato sauce. Hand-cut ravioli is smothered in a homey mushroom gravy, and a bottle of house wine is 6 euros. No one speaks English, and music comes in the form of Italian music videos which play through the TV. 

It’s incredibly charming and authentic. I look forward to sharing more soon.